Great strides

We're at a point now where it seems like we're nearing the end of the disassembly, and we're starting to put things back on to the bug now. THAT is a good feeling!

It's been really hard to find the time to get up and work on the car, but Renae and the boys went to PA this weekend. It was "payback" for G and I going camping two weeks ago I suppose. So I have been taking full advantage of the situation and using my time wisely, if you will! Unfortunately, I also spent most of this weekend so far pretty sick - so out of three days, the first two went pretty slowly, but today as long as the cold meds were working so were we!

We've been making up hard to find panels from scratch. Sometimes that is pretty easy, like the inside rear apron that nobody is really going to see. But other times that is pretty difficult, like making up the outside "H" apron that EVERYONE is going to look at. We spent a little time today shaping the bar stock that will form the "H" and the little bars to either side.

Once the relief is made up, a template is used to cut out a steel blank. That steel will then be clamped to the form, and then hammered into shape. Hopefully soon we will have a planishing hammer (its on order) which will make this much easier, faster and more professional looking. The bead roller helps make the long, even grooves and shapes. It's really cool!

We got the transmission out pretty painlessly today. That was a real relief after it taking more than a dozen hours of hard labor getting the motor out last fall. We were able to save the emergency brake cables and tubes, complete with zirks. We're going to change over the brakes to a larger dual cylinder system, so most of what we took out won't necessarily be reused.

I spent a good deal of time cleaning up hardware though ~ ironically, while we can make panels large and small, matching hardware seems to be quite a problem!

There was a bit of rust that had formed in the center of the rear seat area. We knew a while ago that it had to go, so we made the repair panel some time ago - but we didn't get to actually cut out the bad area and weld in the good until now. I have to say it was a pretty challenging piece, as we had to line up panels and grooves coming from several directions.

After lots of cutting, welding, hammering, cutting, welding, hammering, cutting, welding and hammering... We got something that looks pretty darn good!

We got all of the butt welding and most of the rough shaping in tonight, but we sort of lost our light - and our steam.

So - we'll see what tomorrow brings!

Interesting metal forming...

Things are moving along again now! As solid as things looked, I'm in that position where I have to make a judgement call as far as if the original steel is in good enough shape to save, or if it should be replaced. Then we have to figure out if a suitable replacement panel can be obtained, or if it needs to be made.

I had been buying many of the parts from BFY, and I'm not disappointed in the parts, but they are often more correct for later year cars than what is coming off of mine. So my friend showed me how well he can reproduce some of these awkward parts. At right you'll see the engine compartment "triangles." These were around $130 from BFY if I remember right.

Well my friend was able to use his beader, and a jig he quick made with his plasma cutter, to form almost exact replicas of the originals, in 100% new heavy gauge steel! While I don't think it is the kind of thing or effort that we're going to want to put in to EVERY panel on the car, having that skill sure helps to make sure that we keep the cost down and also get a very authentic product in the process.

So, how far do you go with this? Reproducing small metal pieces mostly hidden from view is one thing, but would you reproduce any high-scrutiny items? Again, we had what appeared to be a solid "H" rear apron, but once we cleaned it up, you could tell even lead was going to really make a perfect panel. In the photo on the right when we held it up to the bright sunlight, you can see the pinpricks of daylight coming through in just too many places.

What to do? A reproduction panel is probably about $500 from Denmark. So we're going to try our hand at seeing how closely we can reproduce this high visibility piece, and then we'll make a determination as to which one we will use - the repaired original with the pinpricks leaded in and the exhaust holes welded up, or an all new reproduction out of new clean steel?

I'll give you a hint. This is a heavy steel plate, and how the process starts! Note that everything has been marked and plasma cut now. Each of these layers and some other stock will form a template the steel is stretched over and pressed and hammered to. Fine curves and grooves will be put in with a bead roller, and the rubber seal channel will be created new and welded in place.

As we were joking around, we started talking about building a 100% reproduction "W" decklid. It will be pretty ironic that with all of the customizers out there that have destroyed so much of the old stock, that this vehicle that seeks to be "all original" will end up with these reproduction parts. Kind of like restoring a Kubelwagen I suppose!

Part of doing a restoration like this is documenting what you've done, and better yet, getting to look back at how far you've come. To that end, I'm going to try to include a lot of pictures and things that I've learned here.

A lot of the stripping got done today. The dents in the roof also got the rubber block treatment to get everything nice and smooth following my cousin's kid's treatment in the barn years ago. (Another whole issue to get upset about some other time.) But the roof came out very nice.

I ordered $1000 of parts today, and there are more to come. As we take parts off, the rubber has gotten hard, and is powdering as we remove things. I can't believe how much all that rubber costs - but then it is great that it is still available after all these years, and the chrome trim too.

We cleaned up the VIN tag a little bit, and the numbers all match between the chassis and the body, and they all check out in the book as a 1954. Everything is looking great on that front. As we take off parts we're getting to areas with the original paint, which appears to be Stratos Silver, a very cool metalic silver/blue/green combination that changes depending on the light.

I should have done this years ago, but now I need to send to Wolfsburg for a "birth certificate." I don't think it will give me too much more information than I already have, but I'm hoping it will include the M codes for some of the cool rare accessories that were in the car (like the reclining leatherette HULS seats) and tell me the original country of delivery. I know it wasn't the US since the speedo in there is in KM, and they didn't "officially" start importing beetles until 1955.

There seems to be a lot of concern over

the "H" rear apron, and the "TT TT" or "four finger" front aprons. Reproductions are extremely expensive, or just not available. So just to ease my mind, I took some pictures to make sure I had the right aprons front and rear.

I shot a lot more pictures than I can post just today, but I want to share one or two other interesting details... You may notice on the front bumper a bracket for mounting driving or fog lights. These are factory mounts, and I have a great set of driving lights to mount on them. Very cool...

When we pulled the fuses from the fuse box, the paper that states what each fuse does was still present. Hard to believe an almost 60 year old paper has survived a decade and a half of driving, 20 years in a field in the mountains, and almost another 2 decades in my barns and garages waiting to be restored.

Looking back, I have to say I am extremely glad that I left her alone until now - had I taken her apart before having the parts and money to do it right, this just wouldn't be possible...